Things to Do in Tolar Grande, Salta: A Guide to the Puna, Salar de Arizaro and Cono de Arita

The best time to visit Tolar Grande, in the heart of Salta's Puna, is between April and November, especially in spring and fall. In those months the weather is more stable, temperatures are less extreme and the roads tend to be in better shape.

In winter, the Puna's dry climate gets more challenging: temperatures can drop below -10°C, especially in the early hours. On our trip in May it got down to -8°C in the morning, so it's important to come well prepared for the cold.

💡 Avoid the summer months (January and February) if rain is forecast, since some gravel roads can become impassable because of mud or flash floods.

Tolar Grande is deep in Salta's Puna, inside the imposing Reserva Natural de Flora y Fauna Los Andes, one of the largest reserves in Argentina. This small mining town is surrounded by salt flats, volcanoes and arid high-altitude landscapes that reach more than 4,000 m (13,120 ft) above sea level.

🚗 Option 1: In your own vehicle (4x4 recommended)

To get to Tolar Grande from the city of Salta, take National Route 51 (Ruta Nacional 51) toward San Antonio de los Cobres, going through Campo Quijano and Olacapato. From there you join Provincial Route 27 (Ruta Provincial 27) at Caucharí and follow it to Tolar Grande.

The road isn't fully paved and is compacted gravel, so it's best done only in a pickup truck or a vehicle prepared for high-altitude roads. The whole drive from Salta can take about 6 to 7 hours, depending on road conditions.

⚠️ Important: There are no gas stations between San Antonio de los Cobres and Tolar Grande, so it's essential to carry an extra fuel tank.

Also, Google Maps tends to suggest a longer route via Catamarca, so we recommend checking with locals or using apps like Maps.me.

🚌 Option 2: On an organized tour

This is the option we chose, since we didn't know the area and we think it's the best way to go. It's a 3-day, 2-night tour that includes 4x4 transportation with a local guide and lodging.
We did this trip with DeAltura Viajes, and we highly recommend them!

The road: an experience in itself

Getting to Tolar Grande is an incredible adventure. The route crosses several ecosystems, from the green, humid Yungas (cloud forest) as you leave Salta to the arid high-altitude landscapes with reddish mountains, endless salt flats and one-of-a-kind formations like the Desierto del Diablo and the 7 bends (Siete Curvas).

You can also see stretches of the old freight railway tracks that connected to the Chilean border, a reminder of the region's mining past.

The landscapes around Tolar Grande look like another planet: volcanic formations, endless salt flats, reddish deserts and high-altitude lagoons. Here are the main places you can't miss:

1. Desierto del Diablo

Before reaching Tolar Grande, you'll come across this striking landscape of reddish tones and pyramid-shaped formations sculpted by the wind. From the viewpoint over the famous Siete Curvas, you get a mind-blowing panoramic view of the desert. It's without a doubt one of the most photogenic places in Salta's Puna.

2. Salar de Arizaro

This is the largest salt flat in Argentina and the third largest in the Americas, after Salar de Uyuni (Bolivia) and Salar de Atacama (Chile).
It seems to go on forever, and inside it is one of the gems of the trip: the Cono de Arita.

3. Cono de Arita

It's a true geological wonder. This perfect cone measures 200 m (660 ft) high and 500 m (1,640 ft) across, and it's thought to be a volcano that never erupted.

It's just 1 hour from Tolar Grande, inside Salar de Arizaro, on a well-signposted gravel road. You can't climb the Cono, since it's a sacred, protected site.

4. Ojos de Mar

Just 5 km from town are these freshwater lagoons set in a white salt pan. The surprising part is that they're home to stromatolites, microscopic organisms that represent the oldest form of life on the planet.

We went at sunrise and it was magical: the colors of the sky reflected in the turquoise water create a unique atmosphere.

⚠️ 2024 update:
Recently the Ojos de Mar were covered by a layer of brown water. The causes aren't entirely clear, but it's suspected that the construction of a tourist platform upset the balance of the ecosystem.

It's worth stopping to think about the importance of responsible tourism in places this delicate. The beauty of Tolar Grande lies precisely in how remote, wild and natural it is. Taking care of these places is the responsibility of every traveler.

5. El Arenal

Just 8 km from Tolar Grande is this giant bank of reddish sand, known as El Arenal.

From the top you get spectacular views of the Llullaillaco volcano and the Andes mountain range.

You can only get there by 4x4, since the ground is soft and sandy.

Tolar Grande is a very small town and there aren't many places to stay, so it's essential to book in advance, especially in high season.

Most of the options are simple but cozy inns, which usually have a dining room for lunch and dinner, plus breakfast.

🟡 Important tip: The most effective way to find a place to stay is to search Google Maps for “hospedaje en Tolar Grande” and call the phone numbers that come up directly. Many of these places aren't on platforms like Booking or Airbnb.

If you're traveling with an agency or on a tour, you can also ask them to help arrange lodging, since they usually have direct contact with the local guesthouses.

3 days and 2 nights are enough to enjoy the main sights of Tolar Grande and the surrounding area. That's the time we gave it, including the trip from Salta, and we managed to see all the places we told you about above: the Ojos de Mar, the Desierto del Diablo, the Cono de Arita, Salar de Arizaro and El Arenal, among others.

💡 Tip: Ideally, set aside one day for the trip there, another to explore the surrounding area and the last for the trip back, so it isn't so tiring.